THERE were pies in the early days but although pastry can be traced right back to early Arab cookery, the true art of pastry making, with all its complexities, did not finally emerge until the 17th century.

The name pie, given to a mix of ingredients encased in pastry, is thought to be a shortened version of magpie, the bird known to collect together a variety of things.

Pastry was not always created to be edible. When cooking hedgehogs for example, a flour and water pastry would be wrapped round the creature, which was then cooked in the hot coals.

When the blackened pastry was pulled off, it took the spikes with it. Indeed all manner of meats were once wrapped and cooked in a paste to prevent the meat from burning. It was rather like wrapping the food in tinfoil as we do today.

In medieval days, pastry cases were thick solid things called coffins (Coffyns) which meant a basket or box.

The pastry would be several inches thick and totally inedible (though this didn’t stop the gravy-sodden left-overs being thrown to the poor that were clambering at the gate during a banquet). Perhaps the gravy softened the pastry and made all the difference to its flavour?

The coffin would be filled with savoury ingredients and cooked for several hours, then presented at the table to be eaten with a spoon.

Gradually, over the centuries, different kinds of pastry evolved, many of which were crumbly and easily cut. Hot water crust, however, which is the traditional pastry for raised pies, remained the pastry that encased a filling.

The fascinating thing about hot water pastry is that it defies all the accepted rules for pastry-making as it calls for hot water rather than cold. It’s a heavy dough created by boiling water and lard together, pouring this hot liquid on to flour and mixing together until it’s a smooth dough.

It is used mainly for savoury raised pies that call for a firm pastry that can hold a filling without collapsing. You don’t use a rolling pin to create the hot water crust pastry shell for a raised pie, this is a hands-on job.

The dough is moulded with your fingers, often building up its shape round a tin, jar or dish, which is removed once the pastry is successfully moulded, cooled, and ready for the filling.

In medieval days the pie man would take his place besides the baker in the market place, selling his pies at prices determined by a special ordinance of Richard II who controlled prices charged by the pie makers for their baked goods.

Today there’s a master-pie-man who keeps up the market tradition, taking his place at West and North Oxfordshire farmers’ markets next to the other traders.

His name — most appropriately — is Nathan Tuckwell, from Chipping Norton. He has named his business Pie and Mighty Pies, and be assured they are indeed mighty.

These are artisan pies created from quality local ingredients that combine to come up with pies that taste second to none, with a glorious pastry crust to die for.

Whilst Nathan is happy to make large game pies that serve a dozen using venison from Great Tew, rabbits, pigeons and other local game it’s the traditional pork pie that he makes from Gloucestershire Old Spot pork that remains his most popular line, particularly at this time of the year when his customers are looking for a centrepiece for their picnics.

Four different preparations of pork go into this pie: there is the ham hock which he boils with spices, also minced belly of pork, shoulder of pork, which Nathan braises slowly and lean diced pork. When combined you have a superb rustic texture that resembles a tureen.

Although his pies are crammed with filling, Nathan boasts that he adds just a little bit more to give them an edge on the mass-produced pies. He says that apart from the meat and herbs: pride, passion, integrity, tradition, commitment, imagination and providence are all baked into his pies too.

He says: “When you buy home-made food from chefs such as me you get so much more for your money.”

His pies may cost a little more than those mass produced, but this is another case of getting exactly what you pay for.

He said: “Most people accept my pricing structure and generally speaking people who buy my pies come back next time I am in town and buy some more.

“I have certainly built up a following of regular customers at Deddington, Chipping Norton, Bicester and Witney too.”

Nathan really enjoys cooking for farmers’ markets. He finds the customers intelligent and informed, and the atmosphere far removed from the rarefied environment found in restaurants where fine dining rules the day. His pies are tasty, rustic and real and he is justifiably proud of his products.

To contact Nathan, see pieandmightypies.co.uk or call 01608 645675.