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The Oxford Times Wine ClubAll-conquering cabernet sauvignon
Last week I said that if merlot was a person, it would be Alan Titchmarsh: something of a throwaway remark that I've been given cause to regret. Not least because a loyal band of friendly Titchmarsh enthusiasts transpired to be less impressed by the qualities of merlot and, in their words, "liked something meatier". I will let pass the rather obvious contradiction here and simply turn my attention to another well-known grape variety, cabernet sauvignon.
Cab sav, as this all-conquering grape is affectionately known, is just about everywhere. I'm not sure that there's a single significant wine-producing country that doesn't have cabernet plantings somewhere in the vineyards. And, the reason for this? It's just so obligingly simple to grow - as long as reasonably warm temperatures can be depended upon to bring the grapes to full ripeness.
This reliable vine further endears itself to the winemaker (and the investor) by delivering grapes that produce easily recognisable wines to the consumer. In other words, it's a grape variety that sells wine.
Cabernet sauvignon is well-known and much-loved for its rich, blackcurrant qualities and the dark plum and ripe, sweet fruits that are often the hallmarks of well-priced examples. Given this, you may be surprised to learn that cabernet sauvignon has, as its parents, the white sauvignon blanc and the red cabernet franc.
It is not uncommon to hear of people talking of the blackcurrant leaf' aromas that are to be found on certain sauvignon blanc wines. The power of suggestion reigns supreme at wine tastings and, if I'm honest, blackcurrant leaf is only something I've picked up when I've overheard others or had the comment placed directly at me. No matter, there's no arguing with DNA and the parentage is beyond question.
Cabernet sauvignon can rescue an ailing wine region. It can pep up a less generous variety and, where needed, can bring added gravitas to already established wines.
Piedmont, in North West Italy, is a region famous for its Barolo wines which are 100 per cent nebbiolo. It would be slanderous to suggest that any Cabernet sauvignon makes its way into a Barolo wine but the slightly lowlier wines from the region do benefit from a dash cab sav from time to time. Nebbiolo can be more than a touch pale and even a little lacking in fruit. In such cases, a little bit of cabernet can go a long way.
Further south, in Tuscany, many of the greatest Sangiovese wines have become more majestic still with the assistance of a little cabernet. It seems to enhance the Sangiovese fruit and retains the all-important acidity needed to give a refreshing edge to the weightier wines.
Wine-producing countries such as Hungary and Slovenia may not be at the forefront of every wine-drinker's mind but a savvy winemaker will know that a label that identifies a popular grape such as Cabernet sauvignon is bound to have a head start. In such ways many people are introduced to wines from a whole array of smaller wine-producing regions.
It is perhaps this grape starring role in the Bordeaux Blend' for which it is most famous of all. You may well ask yourself why it is that such a grape should not be flying solo, instead of sharing the glory with merlot and cabernet franc. The answer lies in the Bordeaux climate.
The climate here is more marginal than in, say, the Chilean Andes and as such cabernet sauvignon grown in Bordeaux can sometimes be less full-flavoured than is necessary. Merlot is generally more opulent and cabernet franc a bit fruitier and, hand-in-hand the trio come together to make a world-beating team.
In bottle and in time, Cabernet sauvignon has the capacity to develop and mature in the most incredible way and it is its structure that the Bordelais have primarily to thank for the longevity of many of their left-bank wines. Cabernet sauvignon is, quite simply, a star. I'm confident that Alan Titchmarsh and his allies would agree.
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2:12pm Thursday 24th January 2008
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