AS WE arrived in the car park of The Old Swan at Minster Lovell it was blowing a gale and freezing sleet was lashing down onto snow-covered ground.

I could not find the umbrella and my other half was grumpy, having battled his way back from London minutes earlier.

We bickered our way to the door of the 15th-century inn before stumbling into what seemed like a scene from a film set.

A roaring log fire dominated the bar (pictured below), contented punters were sipping drinks and chatting amiably and, even better, delicious smells were wafting through from the restaurant.

“Ahhhh....” we both sighed, and from that point on the evening took a huge turn for the better.

I have been wanting to eat at The Old Swan since it was taken over by Lana de Savary, wife of intrepid entrepreneur Peter, two years ago.

The couple have lavished money and attention on the former coaching inn and 18th-century mill next door — and they have made an excellent job of it.

But then, you would expect nothing less from the people who opened Scotland’s Skibo Castle, first choice for A-lister weddings.

The Old Swan has a head-start because of its beautiful setting on the River Windrush, exposed beams and flagstone floors — and the owners have made the most of it with candlelight and tasteful decor.

While we were still looking at the menus, we were brought some truly delicious homemade tapenade and bread, which set the tone for head chef David Mwiti’s superb cooking.

My seared king scallops starter was excellent, bursting with succulent, caramelised juices.

Mike opted for the home-cured smoked salmon, which was a thick slab served warm and packed with smoky, intense flavour that rated very highly, as far as we were both concerned. Mike loved the homemade chilli and tomato salsa that went with it, but I found it a little overpowering.

I have always thought of sage as being a bit boring and predictable, what you might call the magnolia of herbs, but my risotto of roasted butternut squash and garden sage completely changed my mind. Topped with shaved parmesan and truffle oil, its slivers of sage added real zing and made it incredibly more-ish.

Mike’s delicately flavoured pan-fried brill came with dill saffron beurre blanc and lots of very good saute potatoes and green beans.

To finish he opted for caramelised lemon tart with fresh raspberries which hit the mark, while I tucked into a selection of three homemade sorbets. The citrus burst was a little too sharp for my taste. but I could have eaten the incredible blood orange and damson with sloe gin flavours three times over.

Full marks for a first-rate and relaxing meal and I have only one minor grumble which was the boy band muzak piped through the restaurant, which seemed an odd choice, given that most diners were well over 21.

To be fair, it did eventually switch to jazz, including the great Horace Silver, so they redeemed themselves on that one. It was still bitterly cold and sleeting when we left, but we barely noticed, wrapped in the glow you get when you have had a really great evening.

The Old Swan and Minster Mill at Minster Lovell: Call 01993 774441 or see oldswanandminstermill.com