A LONE saxophonist, standing by the roaring log fire, was playing romantic numbers from South Pacific, champagne glasses were lined up along the bar, and a red rose was laid on each of the tables in the main dining area.

It was February 14, a date many caterers dread, as it means they have to supply tables for two, rather than four.

I'd like to boast I had a romantic assignation, and was being treated to a seductive dinner by a tall, dark, handsome stranger. Not so. My companion was a woman friend of many years' standing, who had not been invited out for a St Valentine's dinner either. And yes, when we looked around at the couples also eating dinner that night, we soon discovered we were the only women eating together, but we braved it out.

We'd booked our table for two at the Westcote Inn, Nether Westcote, which is a small Cotswold village, situated just off the A424, that leads to Stow-on-the-Wold. The inn is a 300-year-old malthouse, which has been renovated in a manner that celebrates the rough hewn Cotswold stone and beams of the original building through stylish modern touches, that have been tastefully woven into the decor. Due (perhaps) to its close proximity to Cheltenham, many of the walls are adorned with horsey pictures and jockey's breeches.

The St Valentine's dinner menu, which was priced at £28 per head, announced we would begin with a glass of champagne and canapes, served in the champagne bar. We were actually given a glass of Kir Royal, a delicious cocktail made by pouring chilled champagne on to a measure of Creme de cassis, the popular blackcurrant liquor. A classic way of beginning a romantic meal, or any meal actually.

From the choice of four starters, I chose Severn and Wye smoked salmon, with white crab meat mayonnaise, and my friend had seared scallops, on cauliflower mash, with sauce verge. My salmon was superb, no complaints there, however my friend took one taste of the mash on which her scallops were lodged, and pulled a face which indicated something was wrong. And it was. Clearly, the chef had not tasted the cauliflower mash before spooning it onto the plate - had he or she done so, they would have condemned it to the waste bin. Heavy-handed seasoning techniques had rendered it uneatable.

We tossed up who would go for the fillet of beef served with glazed shallots and bubble and squeak. By calling tails, my choice became the rack of Cotswold lamb, savoy cabbage and bacon, with a Rosemary sauce (pictured). Other items on the main course list were Cornish cod or sweet potato and thyme souffle, with winter salad and tomato jam.

I may have lost the toss, but I ended up as the winner nevertheless, as once again the seasoning had been added by a heavy handed chef on my friend's plate. This time, it was the bubble and squeak which had not been tasted before releasing it on unsuspecting diners. The rest of the meal was lovely, though she did spend some time wondering if the promised shallots had been rendered down into the sauce, or simply forgotten.

The dessert choice included dark chocolate tart, marmalade bread-and-butter pudding, or a cheese board, which included the recently developed goats cheese Little Wallop, that was created for Alex James and cheese doyenne Juliet Harbut, who live nearby.

Other cheeses served were Crudges cheddar, Blacksmith's blue, and Cornish yarg, all of which were simply delicious, and came served with a great assortment of biscuits, an excellent salted butter from Gloucestershire and a spiced chutney (or was it chilli and tomato jam?), that we both found far too fiery an accompaniment for such excellent cheeses.

The saxophonist was still playing when we left.