THERE is nothing better than a warm welcome and a warm fire to lure you in on an icy evening, and that was exactly what we found when we arrived at the Killingworth Castle.

This lovely old former coaching inn at Wootton by Woodstock had been serving its community since 1637, but had lain empty and forlorn for a year, until rescued by Jim and Claire Alexander who reopened it in December after a major revamp.

The couple, who also own the Ebrington Arms, near Chipping Campden, three times Camra North Cotswold pub of the year, have cleverly not gone down the leather-and-chrome contemporary route at the Killingworth.

Instead, they have kept the inn's 17th-century rustic charm with exposed stone walls, fires and lots of wood furniture, while fitting a state-of-the-art new kitchen where chef Andrew Lipp and sous chef Phil Currie work their magic.

And it is still a work in progress with another dining area to be created opposite the kitchen and four bed and breakfast bedrooms to update in a separate old building, although this does not impinge on the current dining experience.

It was Burns Night when we went along — reflected in the specials of the day. After cosying ourselves up near the woodburner, we began with starters of haggis with a shot of malt whisky and the salt cod branâde Scotch egg, a delightful twist on the sausagemeat version.

Both hit the spot as we thawed out. Other starters included citrus-cured salmon and dill with steamed Cornish mussels and chorizo; terrine of confit duck cassoulet, winter cabbage, vine tomato chutney and port-poached rhubarb and mascarpone with lambs lettuce, white truffle and hazelnut.

For the main my guest chose the local roast partridge and said it was tender and moreish.

I selected the day’s special of salmon with a haggis crust and crayfish risotto and a ginger reduction —partly because it was Burns Night, and partly because it sounded so unusual, I really did not think it would work.

But work it certainly did. But then chef Andrew is a Scot, so how could it not? The salmon was moist and flaky, with the crust's meatiness adding to its texture and, complemented by the milder crayfish risotto, a touch of genius, showing the chef's pedigree and training in Michelin-starred establishments.

Other main dishes on offer included pan-fried loin of local venison with beetroot dauphinoise, spiced walnuts and cavolo nero; trio of lamb cutlet, shoulder and rump, celeriac purée with thyme; pot-roasted free range chicken with mustard mash, wilted greens, livers and black pepper and goats cheese, aubergine, pepper and basil lasagne with confit tomato broth.

While we were tucking in, the bar was filling up with locals enjoying drinks and a chat — not a bad turnout on such a bleak night — proving the Killingworth really was missed and is now truly back on the map.

You can partake of beverages from the Shotover Brewery, Freedom Brewery, Uley Brewery and do try Cotswold gin and vodka. Keeping it local, cider comes from Tutts Clump in West Berkshire.

Meanwhile, lovely Lydia, the French restuarant manager, had persuaded us to try a glass of the wine of the week, the Portuguese Quinta da Veggia 2008, which was on special offer and an excellent choice. Along with a weekly wine offer, there is also a good wine list.

The food menu changes regularly to follow seasonal local supplies and every month there is a themed dining event.

Live-in landlord Dan Howson has also organised a programme of events, including a monthly comedy lounge, quizzes and live music.

We eventually managed to share a dessert and, again with a nod to auld Robbie, it had to be the cloutie dumpling with cream.

This delicious suet and sultana pudding, more like fruit cake, is steamed in a cloth — the cloutie — and provided the perfect end to the evening. Rib-sticking fare to prepare you for the walk home in the snow or, to be truthful, the short, slippery totter to the car park.

Lighter offers included citrus meringue tart with candied blood orange sorbet; whisky and honey pannacotta with rhubarb and almond shortbread; caramelised vanilla rice pudding with Armagnac mulled prunes and a selection of home-churned ice creams and sorbets.

A good selection of cheese included Cerney Pyramid from Gloucestershire; Rosso di Langa, Piedmont, Italy; Barkham from Berkshire andvintage Lincolnshire Poacher.

And you can top it all off with a range of coffees and teas.

There is also lunch service with special offers and, unsually for many country inns these days, dinner is served on Sunday evenings.

I always judge any eatery by one criterion. Would I return with friends and family? For the Killingworth, that is a most definite yes.

The Killingworth Castle, Glympton Road, Wootton. Call 01993 811401 or see thekillingworthcastle.com