WHEN my colleague Richard heard that I was to start visiting pubs in the Witney area, he immediately began singing the praises of The Hollybush, Corn Street, which he says offers everything one could wish from a market town pub. He spoke of its friendly atmosphere, special half-price wine nights on Wednesdays, and its delicious food.

"You simply have to go there," he insisted.

So I did.

Its unimposing Cotswold-stone exterior gives nothing away. I have walked past this pub several times since its refurbishment a year ago, and have never given it a second glance. I should have done.

Richard is right - it's a great little pub - my only complaint is that they didn't have Wychwood ale on tap. As Witney's award-winning brewery is but a stone's throw from there, I was disappointed, particularly as I had to make do with Ruddles Best Bitter, which is OK in a qualifiable sort of way, but it's by no means a superior bitter.

However, lets talk about the things that make this pub so special. Firstly, the staff welcome you the moment you walk in, even if (as in my case) they are pouring beer for another customer when you enter. Secondly, despite the fact there were very few customers there when I first arrived early at Thursday lunchtime, the place had a buzz about it, due in part to the way the staff were busying themselves. Thirdly, the decor is uncluttered and stylish, but in a rustic sort of way. Pine tables, wood flooring give it a stylish feel, tomato sauce bottles on the table add a homely touch. I liked it.

I chose my meal from the specials board, having been assured that most of the meat that appears on this menu comes from nearby Foxbury Farm. As I'm impressed by the way this farm rears its meat, I went for lamb chump chop (£11) that was served on a bed of new potatoes, which appeared to be tossed in hot olive oil before serving with freshly cooked cabbage. A small sprig of fresh mint garnish added the final touch. It was freshly cooked and delicious.

Had I chosen my dish from the main menu, I could have had: luxury fish pie, served with creamed potatoes and crispy cheese topping (£9), roasted vegetables with rice, cooked gently with Asian spices and yoghurt (£8.50), or half crispy duck and fried noodles, served with a mix of oriental vegetables and beansprouts at £12.50.

Puddings include crumble of the week (£4), sticky toffee pudding with hot toffee sauce and cream (£4.50), or an individual chocolate caramel pot, at £4.50. They serve bar snacks too, including: a mug of soup and crusty bread (£3.50), bacon bap and HP sauce (£3.50), or a local pork pie, tomato salad, and mustard piccalilli, at £4.

On a nice sunny day, customers can eat in the enclosed patio at the back. It's here that dog lovers can sit with their dogs. Dogs are not allowed in the small restaurant areas, unless it is a very quiet time when no food is being served.

Unfortunately, wheelchair-users may find this pub difficult, as there is no toilet for the disabled, and although the ladies toilet is quite spacious once you get inside, the positioning of a sink by the door would make entry impossible.

Apparently, the Hollybush really comes into its stride during the evening, when, according to my colleague, it's always buzzing with life.

At lunch time, it's a nice atmospheric space, where you can enjoy a jolly good lunch without being bothered by security measures, such as paying before you eat, or leaving your card behind the bar if you want to run up a tab. And when you do pay, you may find that you get a wink from the barman too!

It's such a long time since anyone has winked at me that his wink took me by surprise - a nice surprise though.